NZ HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE S-63 ELECTRONIC CHARTS

The New Zealand Hydrographic Authority (NZHA), located within Land Information New Zealand develops the official NZHA charts used in New Zealand. Electronic versions of the paper charts are available from the NZ Mariner service free of charge. They are electronic scans of the paper charts. They can be used on compatible software and are updated regularly. However LINZ has advised that the NZ Mariner service will be withdrawn soon and replaced with S-63 ENC charts.

The replacement ENC charts are updated fortnightly. This is a great service. It is feasible to have a full catalogue of the official NZ charts for the areas required kept on your vessel’s computer or a laptop.

The NZ ENC has a dedicated website https://www.encservice.linz.govt.nz/

The ENC charts require compatible software or hardware to run. They work well on small sailing craft in conjunction with an on-deck plotter running one of the proprietary charting solutions that come preloaded, as an ap or on an SD card.

The ENC system can be used on a PC or MAC interfaced with onboard electronics as the solution for primary information. Examples of use for the ENC charts include information on restricted areas, anchoring restrictions, AIS marked features, course planning, routing, yacht racing, AIS overlay, possibly radar and other electronic features. The on deck system is the one to use for immediate navigation, consisting of a waterproof plotter, or IPAD/Tablet with proprietary CMAP/Navionics type charting.

To run the ENC charts you need to obtain permits but these are either not expensive or free (LINZ). You get them from the charting software vendor and LINZ. Figure this out by following the LINZ and charting software provider instructions carefully.

Free software options include qtVlm or Open CPN. Paid software that will run it includes Expedition. The software will often also allow you to use other types of charts to such as third party or the raster charts that are being phased out in New Zealand.

A good source of information that should answer most questions is David Burch and you can find his blog here

PRE PURCHASE BOAT INSPECTIONS (SURVEYS)

The basics of how it works in New Zealand

If you want to buy a second hand boat we recommend that you get a survey (meaning boat inspection) done by a good surveyor who is independent of the seller or broker. Problems found after the deal is finalised can damage your bank account and spoil the fun of the boating. On the other hand if your survey or other advisors identify the issues you can negotiate or walk away if it’s a lemon.

Boats over 30 years old will usually require a survey for insurance purposes. You’ll need insurance to be accepted to rent a marina berth and possibly a mooring or to be hauled out at a boat yard.

You can either buy a boat privately (seller sells directly to buyer) or using a broker.

Brokers operate in the same way as real estate agents where the seller pays them a commission if they sell the boat. Brokers will almost always insist that you get a survey so that you are aware of any deficiencies and also so that they are not liable for them.

If you use a broker they will negotiate on behalf of the seller to get a deal acceptable to buyer and seller. The normal process is to make a deal conditional on structural survey which includes out of water internal, deck inspection and essential component checks, engine check, rig check in some cases if a yacht, and sea trial.

The structural surveyor does the hull and structure and external machinery inspection. A mechanic/engineer does the running condition of the engine. A rigger does the rig check aloft if required. A time frame is put on fulfilling these requirements and it’s a good idea to allow a little extra time to get the checks done as organising the surveyors, boatyards and other logistics can sometimes take longer than expected.

The deal becomes unconditional when you agree the conditions have been met to your satisfaction. Some deals have clauses to make it hard to get out of a deal such as that there must be substantial deficiencies. The surveyor’s report is typically used to quantify the deficiencies and it is common for there to be price reductions to alloy a buyer to have deficiencies remediated or for the seller to agree to repair the deficiencies. The broker negotiates these things.

Many people buy privately. A good approach is to use a written agreement between buyer and seller and work through the above processes of survey/checks directly between buyer and seller.

Regardless of what happens you will be in for a journey when you buy a boat. We hope it’s a good one.

REINVENT WOODEN BOAT COMPONENTS

Older timber boat components such as handrails, timber coamings, hatches, hulls and decks can sometimes be reinvented using epoxy and glass fibre.

The original component can be used as a mandrel to glass over encapsulating both sides. Or the component can be first structurally strengthened then sheathed with glass epoxy as a protective sheathing layer. Using a combination of the above is most common.

Teak handrail example project

Photos of a teak handrail encapsulation are shown below. The teak still has some strength so was used as a mandrel (former). The glass reinforces it to make it stronger than when new and keeps it dry.

Background: Teak is durable but soft, it wears away as can be seen on overlay teak decks. In this case the handrails diminution had been reduced to the extent that it could potentially break if given a decent heave. The teak plugs covering the fastenings were falling out exposing the countersunk machine screw heads. The rail was about 2/3 of its estimated diameter and the teak had ingrained mould in it.

Points to note that apply in all cases:

  • Timber must be dry below about 16% moisture content
  • Timber must be sound enough to hold fastenings
  • Timber surface must be clean of mould and abraded
  • Avoid dark finish colours that draw heat causing movement. Movement often leads to cracking and moisture ingress
Before: Mouldy, plugs coming out, worn down
Grind surface with 80g disc carefully to remove mould and prepare surface for epoxy
Fill plug holes and glass over to build up lost size and strength: 1 x 450g double bias over + 200 gram, 200g diagonal straps on insides underneath and wrapped around top to achieve full cover of glass. Wrapping prevents any chance of the glass coming unstuck from the teak.
Before glass cures fully coat with epoxy and microbaloons. Next: Sand sand, fill, sand, fill, prime with interprotect, sand, fill. Undercoat with perfection undercoat using foam roller, sand fill , recoat, sand. Topcoat with 2 coats of perfection gloss in under 18 deg c temp using a small nooks-and-cranny foam roller
Gloss on. Platinum colour. 2 full coats, one day apart
Back on the boat, sealed with Sikaflex 291 entirely covering each mounting base, tighten only until there is only just squeeze out all round each base is no more, clean up with stick and white spirits and alloy to cure. Tweak up nuts slightly. No more mould or wear, stronger than new with less flex. Different colour allows the rail to be quickly seen when grabbing it but isn’t so dark that it would draw heat to cause movement.